C June Barnes - Living Textiles

Questions I am frequently asked and my usual responses to them!

I am a Machine Stitcher - the information given is from a Machine Stitcher's point of view.


Mind Maps are in Adobe Acrobat 5 format - (.pdf files). Acrobat reader is needed to read these files - available free from http://www.adobe.com

To learn more about Mind Mapping visit Mind Manager

Topics

Which batting do you use?

The choice of batting is a very personal one and will be determined by many things -

  • Whether it is to be hand or machine quilted
  • Whether the project is a bed or wall quilt
  • whether it is to be washed frequently
I have, with the expert assistance of Sandie Lush, thoroughly researched battings/waddings and have published a booklet on the subject - Hidden Depths - the Low Down on Batting Performances. This publication will help you make the right choice for you. No one can do this for you.

Almost any cotton is good for machine quilting. Those with an added scrim are especially good for wall hangings. For bed quilts the Hobbs 80/20 mix is a good all round performer for both hand and machine quilting. Polyester is a machine quilter's nightmare, although there are one or two which perform better than others. The answer is to try as many as you can and make your own choice.

From a personal point of view, and as a Machine Quilter, I use either cotton or wool. When I am looking for EXTRA loft I like to use wool, Hobbs Heirloom Wool is very good.

For the more recent work involving shrinkage and distortion I use a Wool/Viscose felt or Arctic Wool Gauze as the 2nd layer. Full details will be available in my forthcoming book.


Where do you get your DESIGNS from?

I base designs on all sorts of things - but especially from sources such as architecture and art. I have a large collection of Dover publications which provide good copyright free illustrations. I take a camera on design faraging trips. Keeping your eyes open for any interesting design elements will pay rewards.

As a machine quilter I believe that we should not be restricted to using designs and patterns which are continuous lines - they are certainly convenient, but all too often machine quilters forfeit patterns because they are not prepared to stop and start.

It is a good idea to look for alternative "filling" or "stippling" designs as the "meanering line" or "vermicelli" can be a little over used.


How do you MARK your quilting designs onto your project?

Which ever method you choose to mark quilting designs onto a project with should be well tested before use. It is important that they wash out easily and leave no marks. My personal choice for machine quilting is the blue Water Soluble marker. It is a good, strong, clear marker - essential for machine quilting which is generally carried out a a fairly fast pace. It is very important to read the manufacturer's instructions, test before use and remember the following -

  • The marks must be washed out completely - not just dampened off
  • Use only COLD water and NO detergent - rinse thoroughly.
  • Heat from any source (iron, sun, hot water) will set the line
  • If the marks are left in for too long they will set - try to remove them within 2months of using.
  • If all the pigment and chemicals are not removed they can cause the fibres to rot in time.

Which Sewing Machine do you recommend?

Sewing Machines are also subject to personal preference. I use Bernina Sewing machines and have done for as long as I could afford to! The Bernina 1230 (No longer in production) is my favourite, and I use her for the best Satin Stitch results.

If the Bernina Range of machines is outside your price range then I suggest you look at machines which have a removable, front loading Chamber Bobbin - i.e. NOT A DROP IN BOBBIN. You will also need to drop the feed dogs if you want to free motion machine quilt.

Front loading bobbin cases give better tension results when free machine stitching. This is because when the thread is pulled vertically through the throat plate to the needle from the bobbin it is on the same plain - there are no angles to turn in its path. With drop in bobbin cases the thread has to turn from the horizontal plain to the vertical in order to get to the needle, and therefore reaches the needle at an angle.

The other advantage of front loading bobbin cases is that the bobbin tension is very easily adjusted - very useful as you can have a spare bobbin case to use with thicker threads in the bobbin.

There are machines with drop in bobbins that do give good tension results when free machining, but generally speaking I have found in workshops that in the majority of cases this is not the case. There is a good comparison chart of all the Bernina Models at http://www.bernina.co.uk/smcomp.html

When looking to purchase a new sewing machine always insist on trying it out on fabric of your own choosing - the things that you work with such as soft cotton. Take in a small quilt sandwich made using the batting and fabrics which you normally use and try to Machine Quilt both free motion and Machine assisted with the walking foot. If Satin Stitch is important take in a small piece of Applique to try the satin stitching on - prepare it in the same way you normally do for machine satin stitching - remember that you need to stabilise for close satin stitching in order to prevent tunnelling. Use a decorative rayon thread for best results with satin stiching.

The Final word is that you get what you pay for!


Which Threads do you recommend?

I have produced a Mind Map about threads which hopefully will help explain the various cotton threads available.
The threads I choose are chosen with the purpose of the quilt in mind.

Bed Quilts

Tradionally bed quilts are made out of cotton fabrics, although silk is sometimes used. Cotton is the most serviceable choice of fabrics. For a bed quilt made out of cotton fabrics I would choose a 100% cotton thread. Polyester thread will in time wear away the cotton fabric. Standard cotton threads comes in a 50/3 weight/guage - examples being Sylko, Gutermans cotton and Mettler Silk finish. A large selection of cotton threads is available in different thicknesses. The lower the number of a thread, the thicker it is. Thicker threads such as Mettler Hand Quilting (40/3) and Anchor Machine Embroidery Thread(30) can be used for quilting a bed quilt. Caution should be exercised when using the very thick threads such as Coats Cotton Perle (12), and Top stitch threads such as YLI Jeanstitch. These threads are very thick and strong and continued use of the quilt could cause them to damage the fabric. Rayon amd decorative metallic threads are too weak to use on a bed quilt and will break with use.

Thinner threads such as DMC 50, Tanne 50 and Mettler 60/3 can be used effectively if chosen to stitch background stippling and shadowing. Thicker threads cause close machine quilting to be hard.

Wall Hangings - decorative pieces

For decorative wall hangings and panels any threads can be used. You will still need to eliminate some threads if the piece is to be washed, but on the whole most decorative threads can be used in one way or another.

Thicker threads such as Madeira Glamour, YLI Candlelight, YLI Jeanstitch and YLI Pearl Crown Rayon can be used most effectively in the bobbin - working from the back of the work. Try all sorts of threads for bobbin quilting - anything that does not go through a Topstitch 90 needle easily is best used in the Bobbin case.

Threads too thick to be used in the bobbin can be couched. The sky is the limit!

For comprehensive information about threads go to www.quiltbus.com/threadtheory.htm

Which Sewing Machine needles do you recommend?

I have produced a Mind Map about needles which hopefully will help explain the various needles available.

The Universal needle is a "one size fits all" - has a slightly rounded tip and with push the fabric fibres aside. If you do not want this to happen use a shaper needle such as a Jeans/Denim 70 or 80 or Quilting Needle. Alwas buy the best machine needles you can - I use Schmetz needles always - mostly a Topstitch 90 or the Jeans denim in sizes 70 and 80.


How do you dye your quilts after they have been made?

I have produced a fact sheet which explains how I go about doing this.


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Contact me

C. June Barnes
50 St. Helens Park Road
Hastings, East Sussex TN34 2DN
United Kingdom
email june#at#cjunebarnesdotcodotuk